Balknakeil Bay - Scotland

With a stormy snow leaden sky as a roof, a cold wind sighing though its empty windows and across the lichen stained stonework, Balnakeil Church can have a desolate air. Of course ruins, especially roofless ones, do tend have an atmosphere reflected by the weather. Stand here under a blue sky and a warm sun and the church does have a much more benign feel to it. At this moment however the atmosphere was brooding and malevolent and I actually felt a little uneasy as I stepped inside.

Balnakeil Church

On the left guarding the doorway is the tomb of notorious villain Domhnuall MacMhurchadh and once you are aware of his history it is easy to understand why this place of worship might have something of a malevolent air. MacMhurchadh it would appear was a cruel and heartless killer with at least eighteen murders to his name. Some say he worked alone, but very little went on without the knowledge of the local clan leaders and many sources suggest he was simply a henchman for the Clan MacKay. 

Heraldic Symbols with the date 1619, the date when the church was built on the site originally founded by St Maelrubha in AD 722. This panel is above the tomb of MacMhurchadh which itself has the skull and cross bone symbol on it


Typically while he dumped the bodies of his victims down the deep shaft of Smoo Cave and denied them a decent burial, he greatly feared what would happen to his own mortal remains after death. To protect himself he used his ill-gotten gains to buy both spiritual and physical security within the church walls by lining the pockets of Uisdean Dubh MacKay the second Lord of Reay with a thousand pounds. 

Inside Smoo Cave.

It is of course easy to focus solely on the barbaric activities of a single individual and there is much more to this place. In the churchyard itself there is a monument to the Gaelic poet Rob Donn Calder, Mackay. Elizabeth Parkes, an aunt of John Lennon, is also supposed to be buried here but we did not see her grave. A little to the south a slightly raised area is the unmarked grave of those who perished off Faraid Head when the emigrant ship The Canton went down in 1849 with the loss of all on board. There is without doubt a palpable sense of loss here which seeps into your being.

Such melancholic thoughts were not helped as the sky darkened bringing yet another heavy snow shower across the bay. Fortunately the siren call of waves breaking on the beach reached our ears and we were happy to be drawn away from the church to walk along the sands of Balnakeil Bay towards Faraid Head.

Any dark thoughts of death and destruction soon faded when the sun broke through and rays of light began to play on the hills to the south. Immediately the mood lightened and a friendly wave and cheery hello from a passing walker leaning hard into the wind lifted us further. Its funny how easily the mood can change with a bit of sun and a cheery word.

Heading across the sands the tide was still receding so we spent a while beach combing before heading across to some shallow caves where we had a cup of coffee and a quick bite to eat out of the wind. 

The view from the caves with the Cape Wrath Peninsular across the bay

Further on the beach merged with the cliffs at its northern end we headed up towards an old boat winch where we had good views south towards Cranstackie and across the bay to the Cape Wrath peninsular. In the sun it was hard to imagine the stormy sky and chilling snow showers of the morning had ever existed. 

The view from the winch across Balnakeil Bay towards Cranstackie

The rusting boat winch was a reminder that people have existed on these exposed shores for millennia. In fact it was near here in the dunes that the grave of a young Viking was found by a walker in 1991, after a storm exposed part of the skeleton. Grave goods suggested a date of around 850-900. Then a few years later in 1997 a Pictish burial was also found in the nearby Sango Bay. This find took the history of the people living in this area back to pre-Christian times.

Moving on we headed up and across Faraid Head towards the military lookout post to get views of the 300 ft high northern cliffs. Unfortunately any plans we had for enjoying the view with another coffee in the sun were soon blown away by the wind. Retreating downwind towards the dunes the weather turned yet again and under an increasingly threatening sky we headed back to the campsite.

Images and Text Copyright David Forster

About Balnakeil Church
Originally founded by St Maelrubha in AD 722 the site became an important place of worship for Celtic people. The current Church was then constructed in 1619 and altered in 1692 when an aisle was added. The church then continued in use until around 1814 before being abandoned when the new church was built.

Further Information
Balnakeil Church

Viking burial found in Balnakeil Bay

Review - Mens Geo Softshell Winter Trousers

Mens Geo Softshell winter trousers.

Manufacturer: Regatta

Sizing: S-XXL, available in short, regular and long leg

Purchased from: Gaynor Sports Ambleside

Price Paid: £34.99 currently on offer at £24.95 at trekwear.co.uk

Used for: Winter hill walking, photography, snowshoeing, downhill and cross-country skiing.

While looking for a new pair of winter trousers in a short leg length in Gaynor Sports, Ambleside the Regatta Geo Soft Shell Trousers caught my eye. Now I have to be honest here and say I would normally head straight for well-known mountain brands. Unfortunately over the past couple of years I have had some bad experiences with some brands and have been shocked at how poor the quality can be. These trousers lack the complex design of some and don't have crampon protection, ventilation zips and reinforced panels here and there, however all I wanted was a pair of simple trousers with an articulated knee that would do the job.

I have worn these trousers a lot over the past couple of months, both here in the UK as well as in temperatures as low as minus 15 in Lapland. In fact they have been worn on just about every occasion I have ventured out in the snow. In use the wind and water resistant outer material itself feels very stretchy and certainly has a durable feel to it. So far there is little evidence of wear in areas such as the knee, seat and where the rucsack contacts in the lumbar area.

Mens Geo Soft Shell winter trousers


Comfort is good and the articulated knees, part elasticated waist and stretch fabric allow for plenty of movement. Activity wise, regardless of whether it was stomping around the Pennines searching for photographic inspiration, downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, or snow shoeing they have proved to be more than up to the task. When it comes to wearing them in snowy conditions I was also pleased to note that despite plenty of thigh deep floundering, lots of kneeling while photographing - and in Lapland, day upon day of continually falling snow, I never had a problem with snow sticking to them. Water resistance from new was good, but after a number of washes has reduced. That said it is important to recognise that these are not waterproofs and they will really only cope with light showers. These trousers incidentally do take quite a long time to dry out and getting them soaked on the hill will probably mean staying soaked. After washing all you have to do is turn them inside out to expose the fleece lining which helps speed up the drying process.

Lower leg detail.

Despite the lack of ventilation breathability was still adequate, although it has to be said there were a few occasions where moisture did build up making them feel a little clammy. In reality this was not a significant issue and really only occurred in warmer weather conditions while exercising at quite high levels such as when walking up steep slopes.

All in all I have found them a comfortable and functional pair of winter trousers at a very affordable price.

Verdict 4/5.

Adder are out in Teesdale

After what seems like weeks and weeks of cold grey skies we finally have some sunshine in Teesdale. With the increased temperatures I suspected adder would be out of hibernation (Brumation) and basking in sun so headed across to a hibernation site I regularly visit on the Teesdale/Weardale border. Sure enough two males were found in their usual spot enjoying a few rays. I didn't want to disturb them too much so simply grabbed a few record shots and left them to it.

Male Adder (Vipera berus).

Finland

The Gods laugh when people make plans. In my minds eye I had visions of heading out in the soft twilight of an Arctic winter, stopping off at a Laavu, setting up the camera and capturing those wonderful Northern Lights arcing and swirling across the sky. Through the day we would head out in the pre dawn on snowshoe, or ski and travel for mile after mile. Perhaps we would be lucky and capture both sunrise and sunset before heading back for a few beers and a well deserved rest. It's isn't as if I am being too unrealistic with my dreams, I have actually been to Finnish Lapland before and managed to get at least one or two days without snow.

Well this time the Gods certainly laughed and gave us six days solid snow, wind and clag leaden grey skies. On the poor days we planned a bit of downhill skiing at Yllas only to find the Gondola shut most of the time due to high winds. Photographically speaking the constant snow and low cloud made it incredibly frustrating. Fortunately for outdoor fun which was the main reason for being there, not even the flu could stop us from having a great time as we sniffed, snivelled and dragged our aching limbs out into the forest, or onto the hill every day.

There are plenty of cross country ski trails and snowshoe trails that surround Yllas (pronounced "Ullas") most of which converge on huts, or small wooden shelters. These open fronted shelters were great places to stop, have a bite to eat and retreat from the elements for a few minutes.

Gathering Around an Open Camp Fire Outside of the Kahvikeidas Laavu

Cooking sausages outside of the Kahvikeidas Laavu



Wildlife wise there was not much to see, although tracks in the snow suggested there was plenty about. Whenever we stopped for a bite to eat we were often surrounded by Siberian Jays who hung around in trees waiting for any crumbs on offer. Some were even brave enough to land on your hand to feed.

Siberian Jay Perisoreus infaustus

Siberian Jay Perisoreus infaustus beautiful birds up close


With over 300km of cross country ski trails, some of which are floodlit and are groomed regularly we were spoilt for choice. At times we felt a little over equipped with our rucksacs while people sped by in thin lycra with nothing more than a small waist bag containing a snack and a drink. At least I felt like that until one shivering skier turned up at the laavu fire and virtually threw himself on top of it. He really did look cold and I could not believe he had so little with him. I expected him to turn around and head back to Yllas, but once warmed he stiffly headed off deeper into the forest. With the shortest circuit in that direction being around 15k I can only assume he was going to rely on movement to keep warm.

 

With around 330km of cross country ski trails there is plenty to do


While cross country ski trails allowed us easy access to the National Park, heading in on foot was not always so easy. Some of the snowshoe trails were supposed to be marked with blue poles but very often we found ourselves breaking trail in deep snow without any hint of a trail. Part of the problem was the continual snowfall coupled with the fact some trails set off as being well marked and then simply fizzled out. By the end of the week along with several other walkers we had blazed a series of trails which all converged at the Kahvikeltaan Laavu. Hard work but great fun.

Snow Shoes could be hired at several places in Yllas

Tiring but great fun exploring the forest


As for photographing the northern lights - with virtually continual snow and grey skies we never stood a chance.



Accommodation
We stayed in the Yllas Saaga Hotel.

Equipment
While we own our own mountaineering skis we do not have cross county skis or snowshoes so hired skis and snowshoes locally in Yllas.

Lift Passes
We only planned to have 3 days downhill skiing so simply organised these once we arrived rather than pre booking them. The Gondola was closed for two of the three days due to high winds and we were confined to the lower half of the mountain on those.

Maps
We used the 1:55 000 Yllas 2013 map. This was the only one that was available and cost 10 euros. Considering the area it covered and the poor paper quality it felt a bit of a rip off and was something other people we met complained about.

Bowlees Beck and Summerhill Force

A couple of shots from Bowlees Beck (Bow Lee on the Map) during the last cold spell. Unfortunately it looks like the path up to the fall is going to be officially closed for a while due to a landslide.

Bowlees Beck

Summerhill Force

Disappointed Sheep

A couple record shots of the recent snowfall. 

 

 

 

 

Clearly sheep are well insulated.

 

This was the shot that got away.  When I first spotted her she was lying down next to the hay bales and partly buried.  Unfortunately the sheep around here are often fed sheep nuts and the sound of a plastic bag cover being removed from the camera must have meant food.  Disappointment for both of us.

Images and Text Copyright David Forster

 

Lakeland Wanders

I know it has been a bit quiet on here of late, but things have been a little hectic developing some more photography courses, photo walks and one-to-one workshops, as well as making plans for trips to France, Iceland and in a few weeks time, to the Yllas area of Finnish Lapland which is around 150km north of the Arctic Circle.

These are a few images from the last couple of visits to the Lakes District where the start of the New Year brought an improvement to the leaden grey skies of the summer. On Wednesday cold air began to spread in from the north east and conditions looked favourable for mist and fog patches to form in the Lake District valleys. After an enjoyable stomp up Causey Pike in the dark I soon found myself on its summit watching the sunrise over Derwent Water.

Derwent Water from the summit of Causey Pike.

The view along the ridge towards Sail and Crag Hill From Causey Pike

Spotted this waterfall in Stonycroft Gill which runs along the valley between Causey Pike and the hills of Outerside, Stile End and Barrow

At the weekend I headed over to the Langdale area and had an enjoyable walk up Pike of Blisco with M and friends G& S. Despite setting out under grey skies by the time we reached Red Tarn the cloud had begun to lift and break and we were treated to increasingly distant views of the surrounding fells. By the time we reached the summit most hills were clear of cloud.

Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell from the upper slopes of Pike of Blisco

Another view of Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell from the upper slopes of Pike of Blisco

Walker on the summit of Pike of Blisco

Summit Cairn